My friend, Alva Morrison, has been in the weatherization industry for many years, working for the state of NM helping families in need tighten up their homes with insulation, caulking and funding. As energy audits got popular for the general public, his natural next step was to become an Energy Rater. Special training and equipment is needed for this job, which entails sealing up a house, running air through it, analyzing air leakage through computer software and offering recommendations.

When my construction was done, Alva and I decided to do an energy audit. Instead of guesswork, I wanted documentation of my energy savings were and how I could make improvements to further save.

A blower door test determines energy usage. Alva determined the volume of the house, then we talked about construction details. He plugged that information into his software, then we sealed up the windows and exterior doors, leaving the interior doors open for maximum air flow.

He installed the blower in the kitchen door. The red canvas was sealed all the way around to make the door air-tight. The blower was plugged into his laptop, then turned on to create air movement, which was registered in the software. We looked for areas where air was coming in. Alva caulked a few old window frames, and rechecked the figures.

We were surprised at some of the results and recommendations. Here are his comments:

“Nan’s house is a great example of what can be done to turn a pretty average house, built to code a couple of decades ago, into a modern energy-efficient home. If built as is today, it would exceed qualification for the USEPA Energy Star certification, even though many of the walls still have 2×4 insulation in a 2×6 wall. The main factor driving the house’s lean performance is a thick blanket of attic insulation. But the solar hot water and the balmy sunroom, with a thick adobe wall to catch and hold the heat, provide solid backing. Add to that a refrigerator, which squeezes kilowatts until they scream, and you have a working person’s house to take us all through the next century of global warming both economically and comfortably. All these things were added to the house by Nan at moderate expense.

“Analyzing possible improvements was very interesting. Tearing off sheetrock and re-insulating the walls seemed like it should be a no-brainer. But when we ran it through the computer, it only showed a savings of around $25 a year- not much reward for all that trouble. The moral is, heat goes up, not sideways.

“However, we found another weaker spot in the building’s ‘heating envelope’: the uninsulated foundation. A quick rework of the house through the energy rating software showed that digging a barrier of four inch rigid foam in around the perimeter of the foundation would return $175 a year – and that?s if the cost of wood and gas stays the same (don’t hold your breath for that!). Get out your shovel, Nan!”

As you can see, an energy audit gives you a lot of information on how to improve your home. I had him calculate a HERS (Home Energy Rating System) score, because I wanted to be able to show others the entire process.

The number of a HERS score is based on the International Energy Conservation Code (IECC), which is 100. My score was 88, meaning my house is 12% more efficient than the code. The lower your number, the more efficient your home is. When I make improvements, Alva can plug that information into his software, re-analyze the results and give me new recommendations

Many municipalities, including Taos, are beginning to require HERS scores on new construction. I highly recommend an audit, and, speaking as a RealtorR, I use them as effective marketing tools for homes. Buyers can see current efficiency and how it can be improved. There are fewer surprises and disappointments after purchase.

Food has been coming out of the greenhouse year-round. Due to some unanticipated condensation problems and failing flashing around one skylight, the greenhouse is not in full use. There is no soil in the bed yet, but I have been successfully growing in containers. This picture is my tomato garden on Jan 31, 2009. Once the construction issues are resolved, I will have achieved my goal of a true food-and-heat-producing solar greenhouse.

Find a certified local Energy Rater through RESNET – Residential Services Energy Network http://www.resnet.us

The entire remodel with more details and pictures is on my website: Solar Retrofit 2007 http://www.nanfischer.com/remodel1.html

Once the infrastructure decisions were finalized, Alex, the construction contractor, and I could firm up our plans. We knew where water and gas lines could go in the house and greenhouse.

Not only did I plan on the greenhouse addition, but I also made some drastic changes in the rest of the house.

1) I replaced all my single pane windows and sliding glass door with vinyl, double pane, energy efficient, low-e windows.

It’s important to choose the right windows for different areas of a home. Lighting, vies and orientation are taken into consideration.

There are several criteria to determine a window’s performance, two of which are:

• Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) – the higher the number, the more heat the window transmits.
• U-factor rating of the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC) – the lower the number, the more efficient the window, based on the glass, frame and spacer material.

I have big pictures windows and a slider on the northeast side facing the mountains. Sun pours in here on summer mornings, so I chose windows with a low SHGC that let in sun and but heat. Obviously, on the southwest side, that’s not what I wanted, so I chose windows with a high SHGC that allowed the sun to heat the space.

Low-e stands for low-emissivity. There is an invisible, thin coating on the glass that controls the amount of heat moving through it and affects the SHGC and the U-factor. All windows should be labeled with this information.

2) I changed the floor plan in western 2/3 of the house to facilitate heating, which was difficult due to a remodel done by a previous owner. The traffic flow was choppy, which also prevented heat from being distributed evenly. I was spot-heating separate areas, which was a continual experiment and not very effective. If I could easily get the rooms heated, I would further reduce my energy bills.

3) I created two separate heating zones:

• The greenhouse, girls bedrooms, a bathroom
• The kitchen/living room, my room, a bathroom

Do you remember that huge room where I installed that huge sunny window previously? I split it in two and gave the girls identical rooms. The doors, which I recycled from other parts of the house, opened into the greenhouse, which would help heat them and the second bathroom. This area was separated from the kitchen/living area by a steel exterior door.

4) I added insulation in the ceiling over the kitchen/living part of the house. Since we put gas lines in the attic and access panels in the ceiling, we got a chance to look at the insulation. It was pretty thin, and we had disturbed a lot of it with our work. I decided to beef it up by having R30 shredded fiberglass blown in on top of what we guessed to be about R19 insulation. I was eager to see how my heating bills would react.

My original thought for the greenhouse was to create a 5.5′ wide passive solar hallway to the girls’ new rooms and bathroom. This would span the entire front of the space. After many measurements and number crunching, we decided to fill the entire corner with the greenhouse. It would be easier for Alex to build if we brought the exterior wall out even with the existing wall. This space was 8.5′ wide and allowed the planting bed to be included.

Once we had these dimensions, we could create a detailed design and start ordering materials.

More on energy efficient windows:

http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/windows_doors_skylights/index.cfm/mytopic=13320

I will spare you the entire thought and building processes and show you what we finally decided on.

Since this is southwest orientation, my main concern was getting extra light and heat, since the winter sun does not come around to that side until late morning. I put three fixed skylights along the lowest part of the ceiling, which has worked well. The sun comes through them a few hours before it gets to the front.

In the New Hampshire house, the south facing windows were floor-to-ceiling. I wanted as much sun coming in as possible for daytime heating. Here in Taos, I wanted a planting bed close to the windows for maximum light, so the windows are in the 5′ space above the 3′ deep planting bed. In both instances there is a 1′ spacer between them for support.

Ventilation is as important as heating. Plants and people don’t like temperatures that are too hot, as much as they don’t like them cold. To keep everyone and everything comfortable, I installed:

• A glass door flanked by two double-hung windows. This allows more sun in winter and serves double duty to ventilate in summer.
• Two double-hung windows in the end wall
• Two VeluxR operable skylights in the upper part of the ceiling. This is where heat will rise, which made it the most logical place for a moveable vent. Air moves in through the windows carrying the heat out of the top vents. Moving air is cool air, so opening the windows and the vents cools off the greenhouse, even if it is hot outside.

The soil in the bed is to be part of the thermal mass. It will absorb the sun’s heat to keep the temperature levels even and keep the plants warm. The concrete floor and an adobe-lined wall on the northern side are also mass that will absorb sun and ambient heat to radiate back out at night.?

The ceiling is super insulated, and exterior doors lead into the four rooms of the house. There is no supplemental heat in the greenhouse. In the event there are many cloudy days in a row or old-timey winter temperatures of 40 below, I will sacrifice the plants as the greenhouse gets cold, but the heat in the other rooms will not be lost. The girls have small gas heaters in their rooms for the coldest days and nights.

The work was done enough by Thanksgiving to start seeing the benefits. My fuel bills that following winter were half of what I’d been used to paying. I cut my wood consumption by half with the new ceiling insulation and double pane windows, and my natural gas bill was about $40 a month at it’s peak with the girls using their heaters.

Come spring, I got an energy audit and a surprisingly good HERS (Home Energy Rating System) score.?

When I bought my house, it was an upside-down T, with the stem facing southwest. In last week’s post, I talked about installing sunny windows in the southeast and southwest walls for passive solar daytime heating. Now I was trying to decide how to further remodel for more solar gain.

I could have added a greenhouse on the southeast corner adjacent to the kitchen. This was very appealing as far as harvesting food and herbs. I’d also envisioned it as a sitting area, the breakfast nook, I suppose. But I enjoyed the new windows, and one was in my bedroom. I’d have missed that if it went into a greenhouse instead of to the moon, trees and coyotes.

The warmest winter sun hit the southwest corner, so I decided to add something there. I wasn’t sure what, but many pencils and eraser goobers later, I came up with this plan. Craig Simmons of Eco Builders fleshed out the details for me.

I was content enough with the heat produced through the new windows that I put these drawings away. I was also a working single mom of two young girls, and my time constraints prevented me from doing a lot of research into this project, never mind starting and completing it! I rolled up the drawings and propped them up on my desk.

In 1997, I lived in an old block home on an irrigated acre of land in Ojo Caliente – almost the adobe dream home! I was more interested in the land than the house, and we cultivated half of it with beans, corn, tomatoes, squash, herbs and flowers that we sold to friends and co-workers.

Out near the garden, there was a small frame greenhouse with translucent polycarbonate walls. I checked the overnight temperature in early spring to see if I could start my seeds in it. It was too cold, since it was not heated or insulated. It was essentially a cold frame with an 8-foot ceiling and roof.

I started researching greenhouses and was disappointed to find all standard greenhouses need supplemental heat. This is usually generated with electric heaters for something as small as I was looking at. Aside from growing food to eat healthy, cost needs to be taken into consideration. Heating a non-insulated building of plastic walls with electricity was not cost-effective.

I came across the Growing DomeR Greenhouse in a gardening magazine. It is still available, and I see them popping up across the landscape as food and energy costs rise. This is a passive solar, geodesic design with glazing on the south side and insulated solid walls on the north side. Planting beds and the concrete slab floor are the thermal mass, along with a pond. Do you remember the 55-gallon drums in the solar pods? Poisson knew water is one of the best materials for thermal mass. It must be sized properly so it can radiate heat effectively. The pond can hold fish or water plants, or boards can be placed across it to make more room for container plants.

The combination of masses in this greenhouse meant no supplemental heat. It was an environment that took care of itself – an ecosystem of sorts. I was sold on it immediately!

For a variety of reasons, though, I didn’t purchase one at the time, but this is the only greenhouse I recommend to anyone. It needs no extra heat, and the larger ones double as a small living space as well.

Ten years later, it is spring 2007, and I want to start my vegetables from seed. I am toying with the idea of buying a 12′ diameter dome greenhouse and putting it about 100′ from the house down the hill on my property. This is a sweet, quiet, sunny spot with completely different views and feel than the house. A few cottonwoods along the irrigation ditch give the space a cozy feel and summer shade. A passive solar greenhouse here would be an excellent get-away.

As I walked the land, I began to picture it. I imagined bringing in electricity and water, and building a path of crusher fines between the greenhouse, the house and the garden. I considered views, sun, neighbors and the heat the greenhouse would produce. I wanted to somehow move the extra heat back up to the house in winter. I thought of underground ductwork, insulation, fans….. My little greenhouse project was getting complicated, the kind a contractor would balk at.

In a split second, like the cartoon cliche of a light bulb going off over your head, my face went from bewilderment to wonderment and glee! I decided to build an attached passive solar greenhouse for heat and food. Remember the mention of this book??

I dusted off my original vision and the drawings Craig and I had worked on a few years before.

More info about:

Growing DomeR Greenhouse http://www.geodesic-greenhouse-kits.com/

Craig Simmons, Eco Builders http://www.ecobuilderstaos.com/

As you gear up for the harvest season, you are no doubt getting excited to taste the fruits of your labor, especially if you are new to organic gardening. But you need to start thinking about what you are going to do with all that produce. It just isn’t feasible to plan on eating it all the first week, and letting it all go to waste is a waste of your time. You need to start thinking about preservation. Knowing how to make your fruits and vegetables last is a crucial skill for any home gardener.

But where to start? Well, you have quite a few options and many gardeners find ways to make their harvest last throughout the year.

One of the simplest ways to stretch out your harvest is to know how long you can wait to harvest particular crops. Root vegetables are really resistant to a frost and some can be left in the ground all the way to the following spring and dug up as they are needed. Some, such as carrots, brussel sprouts, and cabbage, will even taste better after some exposure to the colder weather.

This is referred to as wintering over, and it is very location specific. In particularly cold climates where freezing occurs in the winter, you can apply thick layers of mulch to keep the crops from being damaged. Usually seed packets give some idea of when it is best to harvest, but by talking to more experienced organic gardeners in your area you can get a better idea about what is realistic for your climate.

Freezing is a great, simple method of preservation that takes very little know-how. Bag up fruits and berries and you can blend them with organic juices later to make delicious smoothies without the ice. Better for you and better tasting. Keep in mind what you will be doing with the items later. You might want to chop up bulkier vegetables and fruits first depending on what you need them for. Bigger fruits, for instance, are a lot easier to blend later if you chop them into smaller pieces.

Also, a lot of vegetables will need to undergo a quick process called blanching before you throw them in the freezer. Blanching is a cooking technique in which you scald the vegetables in a pot of boiling water and then put it in cold water immediately after. This stops the production of enzymes which might otherwise cause the produce to continue growing and develop a strange taste in the freezer. The National Center for Home Food Preservation has a list of blanching times for different vegetables of different sizes.

Canning is perhaps the most well known method of preservation, but many amateur gardeners are overwhelmed by what they see as a very complicated process. It really is not too complex, and people have been doing this for years so it is easy to find information.

Canned produce can last for years. This is particularly a great idea for prepared products, such as pasta sauces or jams. It is nice to just grab a jar of sauce out of the pantry when you want to make some dinner rather than running to the store or preparing something from scratch. The HomeCanning.com offers some great advice for getting started. (homecanning.com)

Drying, or dehydration, is another well known form of preservation that works especially well for herbs and fruits. Dried fruits make an excellent snack. The process of dehydration, whether using a fancy dehydrating machine or more traditional methods, removes the moisture from fruits and vegetables so bacteria can?t grow and cause the produce to spoil. It is usually best to use special recipes on the fruits to preserve a more high quality product and add more flavor. Click here for a simple guide to drying and dehydrating foods.

Another effective preservation tool is a root cellar. These have been used for a long time as well, and you don?t necessarily have to have a big elaborate cellar built for the purpose. You just need to create a similar environment with high humidity and very cool temperatures. Earth-House.com has a great list of resources about root cellaring.

We all know fruits and veggies are best when you pluck them straight from the vine and dice them up, but unfortunately we have no say about what is in season and when. So make the most of your harvest. Stretch it out and turn it into the resource it is supposed to be. The information is out there, you just have to put in a little effort and put it all to use.

At the University of New Hampshire, my Soils Science teacher, Art LeClair, turned me on to solar energy. He was my favorite teacher – enthusiastic, intelligent, knowledgeable, experimental, fun and funny. I naturally absorbed what he conveyed.

On a winter field trip, our Soils class visited Solar Survival in Harrisville, NH. This was the home and lab of Leandre and Gretchen Poisson, authors of ‘Solar Gardening: Growing Vegetables Year-Round the American Intensive Way.’ They grew food all winter in frigid, frozen, snowed-in northern New England using solar pods, which they developed.

A solar pod is a 4′x8′ cold frame surrounded on the outside with rigid foam insulation and buried partially in the ground. The lid is not a piece of glass or an old window, like a typical cold frame. It is an arch of two layers of KalwallR greenhouse glazing with Angel Hair, a fine and translucent, yet heavy duty, insulation, sandwiched in between.

The thermal mass inside the pod is a black 55-gallon drum filled with water and laid on its side at the north end. During the day, the water absorbs the sun’s heat and slowly radiates it back out over night.

This photo is a series of pods lined up end to end. You can see the drum laying on its side at the far end of the front pod.

The translucence of the insulation is key. It must transmit enough solar energy in low-light winter for healthy plant growth and to warm the water in the drum to a high enough temperature that it can radiate heat on a cold New Hampshire night.

My friend, Hugh, and I partnered up in lab to build a solar pod. We didn’t get to grow anything in it, but witnessing that process at Solar Survival was proof enough that it worked. After that field trip and construction project, I was completely sold on solar energy!

Art shared another source of information with us, a book by Rick Fisher and Bill Yanda of Zomeworks in Santa Fe, New Mexico, called ‘The Food and Heat Producing Solar Greenhouse.’ It was published in 1980 and already out of print the following year. Solar hadn’t caught on yet, so I guess it was not deemed an important book. I tracked down a copy, though (remember, this was way before Amazon and used books!), and studied it as though I was having an exam on it. I now have a dog-eared copy, which I repeatedly refer to, because, like I said last week, solar principles never change.

After that semester at UNH, my love for solar construction and New Mexico was burgeoning.

(Glazing and insulation materials to build Poisson’s solar pod and solar cones are available from Solar Components, www.solar-components.com/sun.html)

Greetings to all you energy conscious, eco-minded folks! I hope you are ready to read about solar energy and green building! I’d like to start with a little background, though, so you can see:

• Solar has been around for a long time.
• Energy efficiency is not trendy.
• I’m a credible source.

Solar energy is not new. It has been around for as long as the sun! Did you ever notice that the cliff dwellings of indigenous peoples, such as the Anasazi, face south? Over a thousand years ago, people understood the power of the sun. They built their dwellings facing south to capture the sun’s winter warmth. The rocks absorbed the heat and released it slowly after dark. Cliff dwellings were also built under overhangs to shade out the high summer sun.

The principles of solar energy have not changed in thousands of years, and we use them in building today. As energy prices remain unstable, passive solar and other energy efficient building methods are becoming more important. Many communities, such as Taos, New Mexico, where I live, are putting energy efficient requirements into their building codes.

We must incorporate more renewable energy, because fossil fuels are finite. They will not be here forever to heat and cool our homes, and as they get depleted, prices will rise. We cannot create more oil, natural gas and coal, but the sun, wind and water will always be available.

Fossil fuels also cause political struggle, greed and other negative energies. No one needs to die in the battle for fossil fuels when the sun, wind and water can supply our energy needs.

Your home is the first place to begin saving energy. According to the EPA, buildings in the US account for:

• 39 percent of total energy use
• 12 percent of the total water consumption
• 68 percent of total electricity consumption
• 38 percent of the carbon dioxide emissions

It is clear that saving energy in your home will have a positive impact on the planet and your wallet. An energy efficient home is also a buffer against fuel price increases.

Energy efficient homes are my passion. I have wanted to be an architect since I was about six years old. I played with Legos more often than Barbie dolls. My passion for homes, solar energy and all things eco drove me to become an EcoBrokerR, a RealtorR specializing in green homes.

I’ve been attracted to the sun since my Lego days, too. Maybe I was an Anasazi in a previous life. Or maybe the large sunny window in my childhood room had an effect on me. My mom turned my room into a greenhouse after I grew up and moved out. Whenever I came home, I slept with geraniums and orchids without complaint.

I was always outdoors, too, running in the woods, catching frogs in the brook, or marveling at pansy faces and the multicolor sheen of Japanese beetles. I knew at a young age I was part of the natural world.

At 25, I got a grounds-keeping job at a large summer resort. I was in my element, working with plants and being outside every day. This was my first experience with a greenhouse, though.

The Wentworth by the Sea in Newcastle, NH had a greenhouse where we started from seed all the plants for the hundreds of lavish flower gardens. We mixed our own potting soils, transplanted seedlings into the ground, mulched, weeded, watered, fertilized, cleaned up in fall and spread composted manure on the beds in November. After eight heavenly months at the Wentworth, I wanted to study horticulture. I enrolled at the University of New Hampshire’s Thompson School of Applied Science for the fall of 1980.

There my solar studies began.

It is common knowledge that a dog makes not only a great pet but a great contribution to your overall mental and emotional well-being. But could plants have the power to do the same? The truth is, plants play many roles in the natural environment, and by removing them from our homes we deprive ourselves. Not only do plants contribute to our lives in the ways already mentioned, but they are key in maintaining the healthy environment of any home.

Plants have always been used to create a relaxing, beautiful environment, and humans seem to have a natural connection with them, which makes sense as they were once a dominant part of our world before we built our own world. Big businesses purposefully use them to keep workers at work and working harder as well as draw in customers.

It is best to get an indoor environment as close to an outdoor environment as possible. Having plants well-positioned throughout the living quarters has long been known to reduce stress and greatly improve indoor aesthetics. Various studies reveal that working with plants, whether in the home or in the garden, is one of the best things for you physical and mental health, and even being around plants in a sedentary state helps you to relax.

But our veggie friends don’t stop there. Though great for improving your state, plants also greatly improve the quality of indoor air. NASA has proven plants are natural cleaning machines, using complicated natural processes to clean the earth?s water, soil, and air by culturing microbes which biodegradable molds and mildew. When they are placed in an indoor environment they even learn to biodegrade many of the toxic chemicals often found inside human structures.

Experts suggest trying to have 2 or more 14-16 inch containers per every 100 square feet of living space, but the more the merrier. To further back up the recommendation, ouses with plants have been shown to have more than 50 percent less bacteria and mold than houses barren of organic life, regardless of humidity levels. And their transpiration processes adjust humidity levels by letting off or taking in moisture. In the winter, when humidity is often low, we can be more likely to get colds and viruses because our respiratory systems dry out, but plants maintain a proper balance.

Thus, while most people are afraid to go near houseplants when they have allergies, it may actually be a great idea. Just be sure to not over-water or leave wet carpet to mold if you have issues with allergies. Using soiless gardening methods is another way to reduce harmful microbe exposure.

Using better building materials eliminates many toxins before they ever make it into the air, but plants will clean it up and keep it fresh indoors. For all the benefits our carbon friends bring to our home, it is safe to say they can do as much for our well-being as owning a dog. So before you lock yourself in the house to wait out the cold season, make sure you lock a bit of the outdoors up with you.

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In these challenging economic times, it can often be difficult to justify the expense of organic foods. Everyday items like milk, eggs, vegetables and meat are already pricey, and adding the USDA Certified Organic label jacks prices even higher. For those of us who have to stretch fewer dollars further than we ever thought possible, the organic option seems fully out-of-reach. After all, when it comes down to affording organic, free-range beef or affording 5 nights worth of dinners, it’s obvious that the organic option is simply irrelevant.

The option of eating organically grown goods however, should not be determined by the (often elevated) costs associated with organic food. One reason organic goods are so expensive is that in order to become a certified organic producer, you have to spend a significant amount of time and money to establish the organic integrity of your goods. It’s not easy to become a certified organic supplier, and those who attain this status certainly deserve ample compensation for their efforts.

So what can we do to make organic goods accessible to everyone? On one hand we have a huge group of consumers who may want to eat organically but who, at least in the short term, simply cannot afford to do so. On the other hand we have an already financially struggling group of farmers who are committed to growing organic goods, but who also have mortgages, loans, bills and their own groceries to buy- they can’t afford to drop the extra costs associated with growing organic goods.

Clearly I don’t have the million dollar answer to this complex dilemma – there are all kinds of organizations and special interest groups whose positions need to be considered, and true systematic change to the process of producing organic goods has to include the reformation of agribusiness and agricultural legislation at the Congressional and/or Executive level within the government. Perhaps farmers who go organic shouldn’t have to pay to do so – perhaps organic producers should get tax breaks, subsidies and government assistance for their efforts… It may sound crazy now, but someday soon the powers that be may wake up and realize it’s time to produce the nation’s food in a more sustainable manner.

In the meantime, I’d like to offer some suggestions on how you can incorporate organic (or even less processed) foods into your family’s meals. There are all kinds of people and businesses out there who are growing, cooking, and selling foods that, while they may not necessarily be stamped with the USDA Certified Organic label, are still grown using few (if any) pesticides or chemicals, are locally produced, and are just as healthy (and tasty) as certified organic goods.

1. Buy vegetables, fruit, eggs, herbs, wine and meat at your local farmer’s market. Farmer’s markets are popping up all over the place these day, and chances are excellent that there’s at least one near you. While not all of the items found at a farmer’s market are organic, goods do tend to be produced using fewer toxins than do similar items found in your grocery store. And if you really want to know how the food for sale has been grown, just ask the farmers! Farmer’s markets are also great places if you want to eat seasonally-appropriate and completely fresh foods given that most of the items for sale are grown within 50-100 miles of the markets.

2. Grow your own! I know that not everyone has the time or space for a full-scale vegetable garden, but that doesn’t mean everyone can’t grow something they love. If you’re limited by space, try growing fresh herbs in small pots on your window sill. Herbs (especially organic herbs) are expensive to purchase, but easy to grow. You can also plant all kinds of veggies in containers and have a healthy harvest of lettuce, spinach, tomatoes and other food all summer. If you have the space for a large garden, just go for it! Growing food is one of the most satisfying things you can do, and when you harvest the fruits of your labors, you’ll have the satisfaction of knowing your food is truly organic.

3. Shop at local farm stands. The growing season where I live in New England is relatively short, but that doesn’t stop our local farmers from putting out all the stops and stocking their stands with an abundance of fresh, local goods from late spring to late fall. And while not all of the farms in this region are organic, you can always find a selection of fresh foods grown by people from your community. If you have questions about what you’re buying from a farm stand, you can actually talk to the people who grew it, and come to understand how and why they grow their food.

4. Buy organic goods selectively. I can’t always afford all of the organic food that I’d like, so instead I buy what matters the most to me. This means that I always have organic eggs, cream and yogurt, and I sometimes have organic meat, produce and snacks. By educating yourself as to the ins and outs of what goes into your favorite foods, you can prioritize how to spend your organic dollars, and compromise on your food choices. Think about what foods you eat the most, who in your family eats which foods, and how these foods are impacted when produced using pesticides, fertilizers and other chemicals. By understanding how different foods are impacted and altered by these additives, you can decide when things have to be organic and when they can be otherwise.

5. Buy a share in a local Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program. Sometimes farms won’t sell food at farmer’s markets or via a farm stand, and will instead participate in a CSA. By purchasing a share in a CSA, you show your financial support to a farmer, and they use your money to grow food all season. Each week you’re rewarded with a ’share’ of the farm’s crops, and the farmer is able to feed their community without breaking the bank. Again, when purchasing food direct from a farm, you may not always get organic goods, but you buy food grown in your community and invest your money in a local farm.

Eating healthy, seasonal, local organic food doesn’t have to be a luxury only the wealthy can afford. We all deserve to eat food that nurtures and sustains our bodies, and there are plenty of options out there that allow us to do so. And while it may not be as easy to go to the farm stand or join a CSA as it is to go to the grocery store and buy what’s there, the benefits you reap from eating that which is grown by people you know – people who live in and are vested in your community – far outweigh the benefits of picking up cheap goods from a faceless corporation.

Happy eating!

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We’ve entered that special time of the year when the smell of lilacs fills the air, when trees and bushes explode in pink, yellow and white blossoms, and when gardens need your love and attention after another long winter. For those of us who love gardening, now is the time that we pull out our wheelbarrows and rakes, map out where we want to plant new flowers, and get our hands dirty working in beds.

In caring for our gardens however, it’s important to consider how your actions are impacting the environment. While it seems contradictory that your gardening activities could have a negative impact on the earth (you are gardening after all), you might be surprised to find out how many seemingly innocent products and practices are actually eco-adverse.

By incorporating a few “green” practices into your gardening habits, you can create a more healthy outdoor ecosystem and have a truly “green” garden this season. And while you may have to compromise a little bit (after all, it’s hard to have perfect green grass if you don’t use chemicals on your lawn), but at the end of the summer you’ll feel better about your yard and have reduced your negative enviromental impact on your own land.

Change your Mowing Habits

For a nation trying to reduce its dependence on foreign oil and petroleum, Americans use an awful lot of it when mowing their lawns. There’s no need to power mowers with petrol however, and one way to reduce your footprint is to go petroleum-free when it comes to your lawn. If you have a small patch of grass, consider investing in a push-mower. Clean Air Gardening offers several types that range in price from $109 for a Scotts Classic Reel Push Mower to $1300 for a?Putting Green Reel Mower that provides that manicured and finished look found on golf course.

If you have a larger yard, try buying an electric lawn mower instead of one that runs on gas. Electric mowers still require the use of electricity and power cords, however, they only consume about $5 in electricity annually. Additionally, electric mowers are quiet and don’t contribute to the buzz-saw sound of gas mowers that’s often prevalent on warm weekend afternoons. Sears has electric mowers that range from $160 for the Black and Decker 18 inch Electric Mower, to $239 for the Craftsman 19 inch Premium Electric Mower.

Mulch, than Mulch Some More!

Mulch is a great water saver in the garden as it prevents water from evaporating, keeps your plants’ roots cool, and holds water for longer, therefore requiring that your water your plants less often. Mulch also gives your beds a well-kept and finished look, and improve your soil by adding organic matter to your mix. Learn more about the benefits of mulching by visiting The National Resources Conservation Service.

Buy Heirloom Plants and Seeds

Not all seeds are created equal – especially when some of those seeds have been genetically modified in a lab! When planting a garden, consider only using heirloom seeds and plants – those that were introduced before 1951, when plant breeders introduced hybrid plants developed from inbred lines. Heirlooms are old, open-pollinated plants, and have not been altered by science.

Many people also feel that heirloom fruits and vegetables taste better and are easier to grow than fruit and vegetables from hybrid plants. Regardless, when you grow heirlooms you are growing the same plants that your grandparents grew, and contributing to an environment filled with naturally-propagated plants instead of those created in a lab.

Go Organic!

When growing vegetables, fruits, herbs, flowers, shrubs and trees, there is no need to add chemical fertilizers, fungicides and pesticides. You can still produce a bumper crop of tomatoes or prize-winning flowers without dumping chemicals into the ground. Check out these tips for organic pest control from Organic Garden Pests, or Extremely Green’s Organic Pest Control Guide. Remember too, whatever you dump on your herbs, fruits and vegetables will eventually make its way back to you – so think twice before pouring Miracle Gro or other chemical foods and fertilizers all over your gardens.

I hope these simple tips will help point you in the right direction this spring. There are tons of other green gardening tips out there that I can’t address in one post – keep tuned though and I will try to bring you more tips for the garden as we get deeper and deeper into this beautiful non-winter weather. Happy Gardening!

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• How green is your garden?
• Some Useful Organic Vegetable Gardening Tips