My friends Julie, Jamie, and Aidan live in suburban Maryland and recently built their own backyard compost bin. In an effort to get the word out about how easy and practical it is to build this kind of sustainable product, Julie wrote up her experiences and I have posted her story below…

My husband and I are jealous of our California friends who enjoy the luxury of community sanctioned green waste composting. However, our municipality does not offer curbside green waste collection. Years ago, we constructed a chicken wire composter in a corner of our yard, and though it gave great compost, the open nature of the bin attracted all sorts of shady characters, including a gigantic groundhog who took a single bite of every tomato I grew! The chicken wire box made it quite difficult to remove compost from it, and it was hard to properly turn the compost without straining my back. Finally, when the chicken wire began to rust, I removed this bin, and as I researched a more user-friendly compost receptacle, we sadly did not compost for a few years.

This year, we decided to find a solution that would allow us to compost with minimal effort, and without attracting any hungry critters. There are a number of commercially available composting systems, including rolling bins, continuous loading systems with multiple bins, and electronic gadgets specifically designed for composting. However, most of these systems are inordinately expensive and are of questionable and variable quality, reliability, and efficiency. This document outlines a Do It Yourself (DIY) compost bin which can be built in one day. Total cost for all the materials required for our DIY bin was less than $60.00. Since this bin is constructed from a simple garbage can with a lid, the size and cost of any similar system depends only on the size of the garbage can one chooses.

Some advantages of this bin over a simple chicken-wire box are:

1. Since a garbage can does not look out of place behind the house, we can easily avoid detection by our Homeowner’s Association during their annual spring inspection (since composting is technically not allowed in our neighborhood).

2. The garbage-can bin is fully portable, allowing for flexibility in its placement, and making it simpler to spread the compost throughout the garden!

It will take a few months before we can truly say how efficient this design is, but we are optimistic that the simple design and mixing/aerating strategy should allow for good composting. We’ll be sure to update this entry as the season moves forward and our compost matures in this DIY bin.

Materials

1. One plastic garbage can with a tightly fitting lid.

• A 30-gallon garbage can is sufficient for a small household.
• We purchased a decent model for about $25 at Home Depot.

2. About 2-square feet of fiberglass screen (more or less depending on the size of your bin).

• One roll of plastic screen (enough to replace a window screen) is plenty.
• One 8×3 roll of fiberglass screen cost us $4 at Home Depot.

3. Gorilla Glue or any other clue capable of attaching plastic to plastic.

• We found a 10 ounce container of glue for $5.

4. Duct Tape – you’ll need about an 1/8 of a roll.

5. Compost Stirring Tool

• We purchased a Compost Turner specifically designed for this from Gaiam for about $20.
• A Garden Cultivation Tool would work just as well; I found one at Home Depot for $13.99.

6. “Brown Materials” to balance the green materials from the kitchen.

• We use leaves raked from the garden and last year’s dried botanical waste.
• You can also use saw dust from your wood shop if you have one.

Methods:

1. Purchase a garbage can with a tight lid.

2. Use a razor knife to carefully cut several holes in the sides and bottom of the trash can to allow air flow and drainage. (We cut diamond shaped holes, but the shape is not really important)

3. Cut squares of the screen to cover each hole in the trash can.

4. Moisten the edges of each hole and apply a thin layer of gorilla glue. Allow the glue to cure for 5 minutes.

5. Press the screen to cover each hole, making sure that the screen attaches securely. Allow the glue to dry thoroughly.

6. Reinforce the edges of each hole with duct tape.

7. If you choose, you can place rocks or pebbles on the bottom of the bin to help with proper drainage, though it is not entirely necessary.

8. Elevate your new compost bin outside by placing it on top of some bricks, rocks, or wooden pallets, which will help with airflow and drainage.

9. Add a stirring implement such as the one above, or use a cultivation tool which will help you stir your compost from the bottom. Alternatively, you can roll your bin on the ground to stir the contents.

10. Add your green kitchen waste to the can with equal parts brown material (such as dry leaves).

11. Always secure the top of the bin securely to prevent critters from raiding your bin.

12. Each time you add additional green material, add equal parts brown material.

13. Stir your compost thoroughly each time you add more material. The key is to keep the compost aerated and “fluffy;” if it becomes too densely packed, the aerobic bacteria you rely on for degradation will suffocate.? If this happened, anaerobic organisms (like fungus) will take over, resulting in moldy mush that is not conducive to composting.

14. Check your compost frequently to assure that it is getting enough fresh air.? It should not seem wet or slimy;? if it starts to smell moldy or look slimy, you are either not adding enough brown material, or the compost is not getting enough oxygen.? Adding more dry leaves or sawdust, and/or more efficiently mixing and fluffing the contents should fix the problem.

15. EMPTY egg shells are an excellent addition to your compost.

16. NEVER add meat or dairy material to your compost, and definitely don’t add pet waste, or you will breed maggots, and your compost will be ruined.

17. NEVER add grass clippings to your compost, or you will grow grass wherever you use your compost!

18. You can adjust the pH of your compost by adding bloodmeal or baking soda. There is a wealth of references on the web which can help you attain a proper pH in your compost, as well as outlining the proper ratios of green to brown.

19. There are also some compost additives that claim to aid in faster composting by supplying enzymes and/or beneficial bacteria. This author has not evaluated their effectiveness, though in theory they should work.

20. Worms can be beneficial to your compost-if you like you can leave the bottom drainage holes open to allow worms to come into your compost. There are commercially available vermiculture kits, but this author is not sure if this DIY composter would be compatible with vermiculture systems.

21. In about 2-3 months, you should have good compost!